Oct. 20: Walking Back & Forth; Pretty Spello

 

Italians like something sweet for breakfast. Betsy embraces that custom.
After such a wonderful day in Bavagna, and a good breakfast with strong coffee, we felt good this morning getting ready for our longer and more challenging walk to Spello. I was a little worried because I’ve developed some pain in my right foot, causing me to limp slightly, no matter how hard I try to prevent it. But, I took two advil and prepared to power on.

The breakfast room at our Bevagna hotel.

Our room in Bevagna

Leaving Bavagna ready for the walk ahead

We walked about two miles along this paved road with the river to our left. We didn’t realize it at the time that we would be doubling back those two miles from the other side of the river.
These directions were confusing for us. Up the embankment, over the bridge, down the gravel track and under the bridge, which meant going exactly opposite the direction we just walked.  There was no embankment that looked like something we could climb, so we went under the bridge through thick brush and then up the other side.
As for “crossing the bridge,” that was no simple feat. Cars and even semi-trucks were zooming across that bridge both ways. There is no walkway and pressing up against the guardrail when vehicles meet each other is the only way to survive. We’ve learned drivers here don’t much care for pedestrians. 
It was frightening.
Then under the bridge. This is looking back after we crossed under. 
We were aggravated about the whole confusing, dangerous endeavor.

After the bridge incident and a lot of walking back and forth trying to understand why we were doubling back, we were frustrated. The instructions said once we navigated the bridge crossing, that Spello and Assisi would be visible on our left. That was not the case. The river was now on our left again with a tall embankment. Two towns, however, were clearly visible on our right. A check of the GPS on my phone confirmed that doubling back on the opposite of the river was, indeed, what we had to do to reach Spello. Why????

Our typical lunch is a Kind bar and a piece of fruit. 
It’s the perfect energy to move on.

Spello. Our destination…yet we had to walk past it to get to it.

We saw an impressive pumpkin patch.
After 11 miles of walking, or limping for me, we made it to Spello and our hotel. Spello is another beautiful hill town in Umbria. Spello’s streets are particularly steep, but worth the effort to see the little shops, alleys and homes. The views are gorgeous. We climbed up to the highest point in the town and were rewarded.

A steep but pretty walk down from the top of the town.

We found a spot for a cocktail before dinner. After today, we were ready for something stronger than a glass of wine. Most bars bring a lot of snacks with cocktails. We waved off some of them.

Our little bar.

We decided to sit outside to eat, even though it was cool. 

Betsy’s panzanella salad was outstanding.

I had a pasta with zucchini flowers and black truffle. It was the first course, so I didn’t eat much of it, but it was very good.

Betsy ordered the “stew,” thinking it would be a warm bowl of meat of vegetables. Instead it came on a plate. It was tasty, but so rich that a few bites were filling. I had roasted lamb and it was crispy and delicious.

After dinner, we had a nice walk back to the hotel. Spello has some beautiful lighting.

The outdoor area of our hotel.

Cool sculptures at the hotel.

As for our hotel, it is so worn out. It is in need of an update. We upgraded to a deluxe room and I can’t imagine what the lower level would have been.
The shower says it all.

Next stop, Assisi!
All photos by Betsy, except for the ones of her across the table. 
She documents our trip visually and I write the blog, which Betsy then edits.

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