One of the jewels of Tuscany, Montepulciano did not disappoint. This hilltop town is filled with shops, history, good food and, of course, famous for its red wine.
A cappuccino helped fortify us for the steep climb from the base of Montepulciano to the Grand Plaza at the top of the city.
We stopped for a coffee at Caffe Poliziano, in business since 1878, on the way up the hill and then had lunch in the Poliziano restaurant, downstairs from the caffe, on the way back down the hill.
Views are everywhere. This one is from the small deck at the back of the caffe.
It was a very steep climb. There was an option for a shuttle bus to take us to the top of the hill, but part of the experience is the effort it takes to reach the top.
Consecrated in 1712, the cathedral has an unfinished facade.
The main artwork in the cathedral is the Triptych of the Assumption, painted by Taddeo di Bartolo in 1401. However, because it is currently undergoing restoration, we only saw an image of it hanging behind the altar where the original would have been; they provided a slide show outlining the history and details of this, one of the oldest intact triptychs in Italy.
Back down the hill and ready for lunch, we got a seat on the enclosed patio area of the restaurant.
The view from our table.
We ordered two appetizers to share. This one was described as fried dumplings with cured ham and pecorino mousse. We’ve had a lot of cured ham on this trip.
The artichokes were a big hit. Described as roasted, we decided they were more likely braised in olive oil. So good.
Betsy ordered the panzanella salad and Lisa had the ceasar salad. They looked pretty similar except for the addition of egg in Lisa’s dish and large croutons in Betsy’s. Both were fresh and delicious.
Tortello with porcini mushrooms and stuffed with sausage cream for both Emily and me. Not pretty, but very good.
Bonnie had what was described as potato gnocchi with walnuts. They were delicious little pillows that melted in the mouth!
More scenes from Montepulciano
This sculpture is of the typical Italian slippers worn in the house.
The building housing this art, the gardens and some businesses also houses an exchange program with Kennesaw State University.
We’ve seen signs for torture museums elsewhere, but this is the first time we’ve walked by one. We did not enter. That seems a ghastly way to spend time in such a beautiful city.
Back to villa, we all relaxed. There were siestas in the sun followed by a crisp bottle of white for the cocktail hour. We are in the land of red wine, but we’ve all gravitated more toward the crisp, clean white varieties.
The cat that hangs around the villa has been a bonus to our rental. He’s so sweet and loving, taking turns seeking affection from everyone. We’re feeding him, but we don’t think he’s neglected. Bonnie is calling him Tusci.
No more cooking since that would require another trip to the grocery store. So, we went to the nearest restaurant last night, just a mile from the villa. The staff spoke no English but after some gesturing and help from Google translate, we communicated well enough to order food.
Emily’s not as much of a fan of pizza as the rest of us, so she ordered a hamburger.
I chose a pizza from the listings for Betsy and me, and then I tried to add some crispy meat to the top. Clearly, that did not translate. We removed that “cured ham” and the pizza was great with just sauce, arugula and mushrooms.
Bonnie was smarter with her order of a pizza with four kinds of toppings including a better ham, artichokes, mushrooms and olives — all split into quadrants. It was like sampling four pizzas.
The thinness of the crust is impressive. It’s as thin as a tortilla and crisp.
This is our last full day in Tuscany. We’re off to a cheesemaking demonstration this morning near Pienza. We’ll learn about pecorino cheese and then have lunch at the farm. When we return, we’ll have dinner tonight prepared by a local chef here at the villa.
Ciao!
Kim & Betsy 
I couldn’t love your trip more. ❤️