Oct. 30: Rome & Betsy's Birthday

 It was sad to bid farewell to our Tuscan villa. We enjoyed such a great week of small villages, beautiful views, great food, tasty wine and just relaxing in our outdoor space in the sun.

The morning light at the Villa
A last look out the window before leaving.

We started our departure early. Hauling our luggage downstairs was a feat and then we had to make two trips to the car rental agency. Our driver picked us up about 10:15 and we were off to Rome. The ride was so much better than trying to get us and our bags on and off a train. He brought us right into the heart of the city to our door just a few steps from the Trevi Fountain.

Turns out the G20 Summit is here in Rome this weekend. We sort of knew that in a peripheral way but didn’t think about it having impact on us until the night before we were leaving. Both the VRBO host in Rome and our driver texted me to warn that we may not be able to make it to our apartment. However, that went off without a hitch. It wasn’t until later that the impact was felt.

Our apartment is located just a few steps from the Trevi Fountain. We can see the Fountain from our bathroom window.


The apartment is fantastic. High ceilings, very clean and in the midst of all the action while still being quiet. We made our nest and then opened a bottle of champagne to celebrate Betsy’s birthday. All the travel and hassle was behind us and now we are in Rome!

Betsy went for her a Birthday Walk around the city. She strode with such confidence that was stopped several times by people asking her directions in a variety of languages. She was no  help with that, but she liked that she looked like a resident of Rome.

Bonnie, Lisa and Emily also went out to explore and finish up their souvenir shopping.

Scenes from Betsy’s Birthday Walk around the city

Scenes from Roma’s Central Park. What could be more romantic than enjoying the splendor of an October afternoon in this park?

Vatican City is in the background

In the upper left can be seen the building from 1911 we mentioned in an earlier post. The Coliseum et al is to the left of that.

Then it was time to go to dinner. I made reservations a couple of weeks ago for Ad Hoc Restaurant based on some TripAdvisor reviews and the fact that it was in walking distance of our apartment. We set out about 7:30 and strolled along busy, beautiful streets to the restaurant.

The food was presented beautifully and the service was fantastic. The restaurant was beautiful and used displays of wine as decoration with perfect lighting. Some of the food was great and some was just okay, but the experience was wonderful. I just can’t say enough about the staff. They were so attentive and kind and they gave us a gift of the olive oil they produce. That was not something they did for other diners. It was because it was Betsy’s birthday and they really worked to make that special for her and for us.

Steak tartare…we all will eat some raw beef.

This smoked salmon dish with steamed veggies was delicious.

They offered a trio of carbonara pastas as the first course, the left one with guanciale, the second with porcini, the third with black truffles.

This is a cace e pepe ravioli pasta

Betsy had amberjack in a potato crust with spinach. On top is some fried spinach.

The menu had the option to try two half portions of an entree, which is what I chose. On the left, sea bass wrapped in zucchini and on the right is baked cod crusted in bread crumbs.

Bonnie and Lisa chose the lamb dish.

Emily had the Tuscan beef filet

Our server was wonderful. She knew enough English phrases that when we said it wasn’t her “first rodeo” about something, she laughed and then spoke it herself in the perfect context later in the dinner.

We declined dessert, but they were so kind that they wanted Betsy to have a treat for her birthday, so they brought her a special tiramisu in her honor…along with five spoons.

Every table of diners is presented with a tray of after-dinner treats.

The stroll back home was just as beautiful and interesting. Rome is gorgeous at night and we had such a good walk through the streets and piazzas.

We purposely wandered off course and then happily found ourselves at the base of the Spanish Steps.

Then we were ready to get back home, and that turned into its own adventure. I set my phone GPS for the Trevi Fountain but as we neared it, we saw police barricades. Armed police or military personnel were blocking the entrance and sending us away. We tried another more direct route, but then realized the entire fountain area was blocked off and guarded by police and military personnel. It was about 11:30 p.m. We picked up enough of the conversations of others in the crowd to learn the fountain would be closed until Sunday because of an event planned for the G20 Summit. The area was being cleaned and prepped for that event.
That posed a problem for us, since we had to pass by the fountain to get to our apartment. Bonnie struck up a conversation with the operator of a gelato shop at the edge of the fountain and he offered to help us speak with the police. With his help, we were able to communicate the location of our apartment and an officer escorted us to the door.
It did mean that we got a once-in-a-lifetime view of a Saturday-evening, tourist-free Trevi Fountain.

The view of the fountain from our bathroom window.

This morning, a lot of activity began around the fountain. We could see police, military personnel, Secret Service people and lots of other serious men and women dressed in black with guns and earpieces. Our VRBO host sent us an email telling us we were forbidden to leave the apartment until around 11 a.m.

That’s the view from our bedroom window. The activity kept picking up throughout the morning.

Then, out came the heads of state. Germany’s Chancellor Angela Merkel and France’s President Emannuel Macron were recognizable to us and Betsy was quick enough to snap a photo.

We turned on the TV and there were all the same people we just watched walk to the Fountain.

That was a fun and interesting way to start the morning. Now, we are off to Roam around Rome.

The coffee fiasco

One final note on the morning. We didn’t understand the coffee machine in the apartment and so couldn’t find the proper coffee pods when we arrived in Rome. We figured one of us would run out for fresh coffee this morning. Due to all the security in our neighborhood, that wasn’t possible.

I decided to try my hand at making coffee in the two mocha pots in the apartment. I watched several videos and then went to the kitchen at 7 a.m. to give it a try. I found what I thought was coffee in a can in the cabinet. I should have used my observational skills better than I did. I followed all the directions I had seen in the video and ended up with something sticky in the pot and the liquid that did pour out didn’t look much like coffee. I doctored it with some coffeemate and extra boiling water and served it to Betsy in bed and went back to the kitchen to make another cup for myself.

Bonnie came to the kitchen as I was finishing my cup and I handed it to her to try. She grimaced and said it did not taste like coffee. She picked up the can of brown powder I was using and actually looked at it. The word was “orzo” and the pictures were of some kind of grain.

Turns out that’s a barley coffee substitute. Why is this a thing?

I made tea instead.

Ciao!

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