Taormina: Such A Beauty

We visited one of Sicily’s most picturesque towns today, Taormina, perched atop a mountain overlooking the sea. Even though it was overcast, the views were stunning.

We got a late start, for which I am to blame. I stayed up late trying to see the Super Bowl and had no luck, other than losing a lot of sleep since it aired here after midnight.

The drive to Taormina had its thrills and so did the drive home. These hairpin curves, monstrous semis (even bigger than in the U.S.) and seasoned Italian drivers are a lot. The parking garage in Taormina was a special challenge. It was so narrow that there were no inches to spare. The walls on each side had more scrape marks from cars where drivers had misjudged the width than paint. We managed to thread that needle and get a spot and then a free shuttle bus took us to the town. It was lovely, truly. We had heard mixed reviews about Taormina. Everyone agrees it’s gorgeous, but some call it snobby while others complain about the crowds. We didn’t experience either since it is off-season. In a typical year, more than 3 million people visit this relatively small town. We walked the main promenade which was filled with shops and restaurants.

For lunch, we chose pizza, our first on this trip.

Taormina has been drawing visitors for more than two thousand years, from ancient Greeks to Grand Tour travelers. The Grand Tour was a traditional educational journey through Europe—especially Italy—taken by young aristocrats from the 17th to early 19th centuries, and Taormina became a favored stop for its classical ruins, scenery, and Mediterranean views.

The Oscar Wilde statue in Taormina is a tribute to the writer who spent time in Sicily during his travels in the 1890s. Wilde was captivated by Taormina’s beauty and classical past, and the town later embraced him as part of its long tradition of attracting artists, writers, and outsiders. It’s a reminder that Taormina’s appeal has been drawing curious minds for well over a century.

A cold, drizzling rain sent us back to the bus stop, which was fine. We were ready to go home anyway. Another stop at the grocery store and then the trip back up to our house, La Villa Rosa.

Everywhere we go involves a toll road and trust me, it is not as straight forward as one might think. I have had no euros for a couple of days now, so I needed to pay with my credit card. And that meant I had to go through a booth with an attendant. However, there is no signage to let you know which of the two to three booths have an attendant and you can’t see inside because they are draped in curtains. It is maddening. I have had to back out numerous times to try another booth. Fortunately, no one has been behind me.

Until today.

On the way to Taormina, I pulled up to a booth that had no attendant and several cars were behind me. The horn blowing and Italian swears were loud from the line of the cars. It was awful, but finally some woman came from some little building that looks like storage, not an office, and began chastising me. I could tell that even though I couldn’t understand a word she said. Finally, she went back into that building and came out with what looked like a foot-long register receipt and said something about paying the next day and a fine. Then she raised the gate and let me pass. All of that for about 90 cents toll, since Taormina is so close to our house. I now have plenty of coin euros in the car. Lesson learned.

Back at the house, we built a nice fire and Sheri cooked a fabulous sheet pan dinner of chicken thighs, potatoes, onions, fennel and olives. After dinner, we watched some Olympic highlights and then the latest episode of The Pitt. We are in bed early tonight because we want to get out early tomorrow. The night sounds here include owls, other birds and a rooster who serenades us throughout the night and at dawn. The morning comes alive with birds feeding on oranges from the trees surrounding the property. There are no traffic sounds here on this mountainside, which is wonderful.

But the star of the show is Mt. Etna. We have an amazing view of the volcano.

I will say this trip has been tough in some ways. The curvy roads are hard for Betsy’s vestibular system and the car rides leave her unbalanced and anxious. Betsy has never had anxiety, but the brain injury she suffered changed that. But more than that issue, she also feels a sadness about it all sometimes. Taormina is full of those side alleys with steps leading to cool shops and other interesting sites. Prior to being hit by the car, she would have been exploring all of that. I would have whined some, but not her. It breaks my heart that she doesn’t have the physical ability she once had and that she is missing out on the things she most enjoyed. Yes, she is enjoying this trip, but it is also very hard on her. The mobility scooters I rented for Madrid and here didn’t work out because they jostled her too much. She can walk and does, but there are limits for her now that didn’t exist pre-accident.

We are having fun, but we are also learning what works and what doesn’t. I may have been too ambitious choosing Sicily as our first overseas trip in three years. There are so many hills, so many curves and so many cobblestones. Some of this trip has put too much emphasis on her limitations instead of her achievements. She keeps apologizing for not being able to do things or for preventing Sheri and me from doing some things. There is no need. She is a blessing, just as she has always been. In a way, for her, this trip is both an adventure and a sacrifice.

She agreed to it for me because she knows how much I love travel. And I do, but I love her far more.

This post is part of our 2026 journey to Madrid, Sicily and Rome.
Read the complete series