All Roads Lead to Rome!

This is Piazza Navona, one of the most famous and vibrant public spaces in the heart of Rome. It is just two minutes from our apartment. The sun is shining on the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, which was designed by the celebrated Baroque architect Francesco Borromini.
The square is built on the site of the Stadium of Domitian, which explains its unique long, oval shape that followed the lines of the ancient open arena. Today, it is renowned for its three magnificent fountains, including Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers, and it remains a popular gathering spot for artists, street performers, and travelers from around the world. We plan to spend some of the afternoon here.

This is the fourth time that phrase has appeared in this blog because this is our fourth visit to Rome. That phrase originated as a nod to Augustus Caesar’s golden milestone and 50,000 miles of stone highway, all leading to Rome. For us, every trip to Italy begins and/or ends from this city. And that’s just fine with us.

Yesterday, however, the road to Rome was fraught. We arrived at the Catania airport about 10 a.m. and checked our bags with Ryanair and planned to wait at the gate. But that’s not what they do there for people using the wheelchair service in the airport. Betsy can walk, but not for long distances carrying baggage. And, it’s more the standing for long periods, like in security lines, that is difficult for her. All that’s getting better, but we aren’t quite there yet. So, we booked assistance through the airport. At first it seemed great. They took us to a special security gate and we moved right through and then into a waiting area…where we waited…and waited…and waited.

We were parked in purgatory for almost three hours. Sometimes employees filled the room, other times we were alone and forgotten.

For almost three hours we waited in that hot and stuffy room. No water, no information. We watched people come and go and saw at least 20 employees of what seemed to be the wheelchair transport team sitting around watching their phones. About 30 minutes before flight departure time, I asked someone, using Google Translate, for some information and the response was, “It’s okay, you are in the right place.” About 10 minutes before our flight departure, the panic started setting in. One kind soul took notice and began making calls. Turns out our flight was delayed, but there were no announcements, no screens, no update in the Ryanair app, so we had no idea. Finally, someone did get us to the plane.

A note about Ryanair: We’ve had trouble with our seats on both flights this trip. Each time, we purchased premium seats in the front of the plane and each time they’ve moved us and attempted to separate us. The first time, it wasn’t a big deal because we were able to get someone to swap and allow us to sit together. This time, we were moved apart to the back of the plane out of the premium seats and separated, but after pleading with a flight attendant, she at least seated us together. Between the two flights, I wasted about $150 buying seats we didn’t get. We will be avoiding Ryanair in the future.

Nothing premium about these seats.
Betsy gets a ride through the Rome airport

Landing in Rome was a relief. The transport service there for Betsy was flawless and even took her all the way to the car of the private driver we booked to get us to the apartment. Our driver was so nice and the ride to the apartment was a pleasure. The apartment is wonderful, just steps away from the Pantheon. The building includes a hotel and is safe and taxis are right out front, which is a big help to us this time since we’re not walking like we once did.

The view from our window

The apartment is lovely. We have a a good view and double-paned windows that shut out the noice at night. We feel relaxed in the heart of this busy city. Allegra, a college student, helps manage the apartment and lives right next door. Having managed our own vacation rentals in Nashville, we aren’t needy guests, but there is something really comforting knowing that assistance is literally just a few feet away while also having privacy.

Last night, we ate at a family-owned restaurant, just a short taxi ride from our apartment. We were celebrating our 37th anniversary and it was so much fun. The service, food and wine were all perfect. Over the holidays, we spent a night in Atlanta and ate a restaurant owned by Scott Conant, one of Food Network’s star chefs. There, we had a white wine made from pecorino grapes, which we didn’t even know existed. We thought pecorino was only a type of cheese. We love this wine. It’s crisp and clean and delicious. We are going to find some to stuff in our suitcase to bring home.

We had cocktails before dinner, which has been rare for us here. We’ve mostly had wine. I had an Old Fashioned with a maraschino cherry. That impossibly red overly sweet fruit(ish) bomb gets a bad rap, but for me it is nostalgic. As children, our stepfather took us out to dinner the Elks Club in Williamson once a week while our mother played in her bridge club. We were served Shirley Temples with those cherries stabbed by a tiny sword. It’s a memory I cherish. I see in this photo that my headcover is a little wacky, but I figure that happens with people’s hair sometimes, too. I know it did mine when I had it. Just gotta roll with it.
I wish I could prepare an artichoke like this. Not a shred of choke or hard leaf.
Betsy said this was the sweetest shrimp she’s ever had. You order it by the piece and she wished she had ordered a few more.
I wanted spaghetti and meatballs, which was not on the menu, so I ordered both, a primo and secondo to be served together. I never do that. We don’t eat that much these days. We ended up taking a lot home but plan to turn it into something new combining the pasta, meatballs, leftover sautéed chicory and fresh arugula. Not sure what to do with those potatoes that came with the meatballs, but I trust Betsy to figure something out. Along with a half bottle of wine, our “to go” bag was so big that our server jokingly asked if we would like to take the table and wine bucket along with us.
This is the reason we stopped eating our dinner, to save room for dessert. This ricotta, pear and hazelnut cake was heavenly. Nothing leftover to bring home from this dish.

Today isn’t going to be busy for us. A great perk of four visits to the same city is that we’ve already done everything on our tourist checklist. We’ll likely spend some time outside at a cafe. The sun is shining and it should warm up to the 60s by the afternoon before the clouds roll in. Tonight, we plan to see an “opera lite” performance, just the greatest hits. We did something similar a few years ago and it was fun.

This post is part of our 2026 journey to Madrid, Sicily and Rome.
Read the complete series

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