Our last day was clear and sunny and a perfect way to end this trip. We visited Santa Maria Maggiore in the morning, one of the four major papal basilicas in Rome and one of the oldest churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary in the Western world. We have visited the basilica on another trip, but it is definitely worthy of a second look. It was founded in the 5th century, shortly after the Council of Ephesus in 431 officially recognized Mary as the Mother of God. What makes this church remarkable is how much of its early structure survives. The 5th-century mosaics along the upper walls are among the oldest in Rome. The gilded coffered ceiling is said to be decorated with some of the first gold brought back from the Americas and presented to the Spanish monarchs, who then donated it to the church. According to tradition, the basilica’s location was inspired by a miraculous August snowfall in 358, and each year on August 5, white petals are dropped from the ceiling to recreate the “Miracle of the Snow.”
Next, we were off to the Monti district. We’ve never explored that area, which is near the Colosseum. It was bustling with a lot of young people and the narrow alleys featured some high end shops and restaurants.We found a food shop that seems to be Rome’s answer to New York’s Zabar’s. Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina has locations throughout Rome. The biggest is at Campo de’ Fiori, but we never explored much of that area because we spent a lot of time there on previous trips and the market there can be overwhelming. The Monti location was a perfect place to shop. Roscioli is a multi-generational institution that is both a world-class deli and an elite restaurant all at once. The space is lined from floor to ceiling with artisanal pastas, rare olive oils, and a massive selection of cured meats and cheeses. It is the kind of place where you can stock your pantry with the finest goods Italy has to offer, and I certainly made that attempt. Our bags are heavy with pasta sauce, olive oil and other goodies. Anyone who knows me well knows I have a condiment addiction. I gave into that and bought several jars filled with tasty spreads.
I searched for a tablecloth, but couldn’t find a shop that sold any. I did come across a street market, but no need for us to buy fruits and vegetables since we are about to go home. This market was calmer than the one at Campo di Fiori and that was really nice.
Betsy sat in a pleasant park while I looked around. She’s trying to fight off that cold that’s followed us from Madrid and the farmacia cold medicine made her sleepy. Two nice young girls sat down beside her, one from Sweden and the other from Ireland. We chatted a bit when I returned. They offered advice on how find a taxi or other transportation back to our apartment. They both said they hoped to visit Nashville someday. People from all over the world recognize Nashville and respond positively. Most know it’s the home of Dolly Parton and the younger people know that Taylor Swift once called her hometown. It’s fun to be from a city with such a good reputation.
A taxi back to the apartment cut through the tiniest alleys that seemed impossibly narrow.
We booked a 2 p.m. lunch at Cesare’s al Pellegrino, a restaurant recommended by Katie Parla, an expert on Rome who we saw on Bobby Flay’s podcast Bobby on the Beat. She was so right. It was small, maybe 15 tables and it was lovely inside, like an escape from the busy streets. We loved it.
Betsy ordered the gnocchi she’s been craving. It was delicious.
I ordered cacio e pepe, one of the four kings of Roman pasta. It amazes me how something so simple can be so delicious. It’s just pasta, Pecorino Romano cheese and black pepper with a little pasta water added to create the sauce. There is no cream, butter or olive oil. It is all about technique. The version at Cesare’s was the best I’ve ever had.
After lunch, I went back out for a while to shop for some souvenirs and to find something special for Betsy. I purposely tried to get lost and succeeded. It’s not scary to be lost when your phone can easily guide you home. I walked alleys, popped into any open church I could find, peeked into stores and bought some earrings and two necklaces for Betsy.
As I close the blog today, we are sitting in the British Airways lounge at the Rome airport having some coffee and a little breakfast. We fly from here to Heathrow and then on to Nashville. We were up at 4 a.m. to catch our 5 a.m. ride to the airport. We’ll be home about 3 p.m. today Nashville time. It’s been wonderful, but it’s going to be good to get home and see Mavis, sleep in our bed and get back to our routine, which will intensify regarding getting Betsy in better health. This trip has exposed both her strengths and her ongoing issues. Her balance problem is a major obstacle to her ability to enjoy travel or much else. She says she feels as though she’s constantly walking on a trampoline. I can’t imagine such a thing. We’ve got a new plan to try to address that.
For now, I’m going to stroll through the duty-free shopping area and see if any condiments catch my eye.
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Kim & Betsy 
I have so enjoyed your trip. It felt like I was by your side. Beautiful pictures and wonderful writing captured the sights, sounds, tastes and joy of exploring Italy. Thank you for sharing your journey. Wishing Betsy continued recovery and blessings to the love you share. Nancy