Last night, we had a fantastic dinner in Volterra. I ate steak (apologies to Nancy and Jessy). It was fantastic, and I honestly needed the boost from the protein. We also had a dessert. I do not know the Italian name, but in English it was three types of chocolate (white, light and dark) and caramel sauce with a hint of orange. Oh my gosh. It was good.
This morning, we finally met our representative, Ingo Olie. He is quite cute, though seems a bit skinny to be hauling around our luggage. He was nice and helpful, though he did ask how we found the walking so far. I now know why. The first day was an adventure. It was difficult, with those steep and sharp ascents. Today, well, it was just plain hard.
It started out simple enough, through a beautiful wooded area and through vineyards and lots of olive groves. There were some steep ascents, but it was okay. Then we happened upon an unexpected pleasure of wine tasting, followed a half mile later by a truly great lunch. We saw people sitting out on a small veranda overlooking the Tuscan countryside. They said the restaurant was serving (in fact, they were the staff). We sat down. No one asked what we wanted or showed us a menu, they just started bringing food, wine, olive oil, etc. It was excellent. I am certain Betsy will describe the food, so I will move on.
After lunch, we walked up the steepest incline so far (but not of the day) and then down, down, down, down to a river. Here is the thing about going downhill. There is no pleasure in it. Because, to change a common phrase, what goes down, must go up. And up, and up.
By the time we made it to our hotel (which required us to walk up two floors to our room), we were really hot and tired. But, we opened the windows and looked out into the Tuscan hillside. Wow. All day we have had views showing us where we walked from, and, not so pleasant, where we had to walk to. Still, there is a sense of achievement in this.
And blisters. Oh yes, we have blisters. And we are 20 miles into about 80 miles.
Tonight, I am having medicinal wine.
Kim
We had a lovely day today, albeit a harder one than yesterday. We went up and down stony paths, through woods, across vineyards, through olive groves and pastures. And we are quite tired, but feeling revived after a rest in our hotel room, which is loaded with our laundry. (When you come to Italy for 2 weeks with a carryon, you have to wash out your clothes.)
We walked through a 12th century village that was abandoned, centuries ago. Still, walls stood, the castle towers were guarding both ends and it looked over an incredible view. We took pictures, pictures. It was unlike anything I have ever seen. It was an archeological site, and Kim said that if this were something in America, there would be park rangers all over the place, with guard rails and a guided path. Instead, it was just all open, and you could (if you wished) climb all over the walls and go up and down the steps. It was amazing and just a little ghosty, especially the tomb next to the old church (which someone had tried to restore several years ago but abandoned the attempt). I was afraid a wild boar might jump out, but anyone who knows Kim and her childhood fears knows that she was worried about LeStat…
Ah, Frattoria San Donato, where we had the wine tasting, was wonderful. About six buildings in the little hamlet, but very charming. And the sommelier was very helpful, and spoke English. We tasted 3 wines and purchased a bottle (all of which were made there), which we enjoyed upon getting to San Giamignano. After that, as Kim mentioned, we walked down the lane and looked upon spectacular scenery, then happened upon the Frattoria Vortrano (that might not be exactly correct, but it is the best I can remember without looking at the brochure I picked up). Wow, what a wonderful happenstance. Basically we had ham and corn salad, followed by mac & cheese, but lord have mercy, it was fantastico! Bread, olive oil (fruity, light and sweet) and wine, with sparkling mineral water. Yumbola! The best food we have had in Italy yet.
San G. is absolutely beautiful. Now that I have a little strength, I can not wait to see it. This is an interesting, beautiful and inspirational walk, even if it is a little tiring.
By the way, the material that Sherpa sent mentioned vipers. Kim laughed. And then we saw one yesterday on the road. She nearly stepped on it.
If we can find an internet connection tomorrow, we will write again. Until then…
ciao
betsy
Kim & Betsy 
Reading this, I kept expecting Kim to say that after a sumptuous food fest and yet another toast with those ever-flowing bottles of vino, that you missed the next leg of your walk and … and well, let’s just say that hopefully we’ll never hear that adventure. Don’t they have donkeys or flower carts, or something along the way on which to grab a ride for few miles?Puella parva est. (The extent of my hi-school latin lesson from Ms. Colquett who used to spit, during her lectures, on those sitting in the first row.) Love keeping track. Junie
Just wondering on our end it says 9:36 a.m what time are you actually writing these wonderfully entertaining blogs? Can’t wait to hear the tub story.
Girls,I am so proud of you. Despite blisters, vipers, tub alarms and what sounds like an endless hell of hills, rivers and valleys you seem to have kept your sense of humor. Bravo (again!)I’m with June, though, don’t they have donkeys or hungry peasants needing to tote weary American women to the next bottle of wine? What’s the weather like? Is it warm? We’re having a cold spell (like you care…) but it hasn’t tamped down the 3kajillion pollen count one bit (like you care…).Write more!