Cheese Shops, Bread Makers & Ancient Cities

Bonnie walking along a beautiful street in Altamura

The bread shop we visited

When we first arrived we headed straight for the bread shop, but the bread was in the oven and wouldn’t be ready for another 45 minutes, so we visited the cathedral and walked around the city for a bit. The cathedral was beautiful and peaceful.

The Conversion of St. Paul (a copy)

The bread pulled from the oven is made with local water and durham flour, which is what it makes it unlike any other bread made in Italy. It is the first bread to bear the D.O.P. logo in the category of baked goods. 

Bread in the metal basket. Hot from the oven.

While Betsy waited to get the bread, I went on to the cheese shop. Luckily, two fo the brothers were in the shop, Paolo and Vito, who spoke excellent English. He could not have been more gracious and charming. He had us tasting lots of cheese and then gave us several gifts including cheese and pasta. We also bought cheese for the villa and have already shipped three large wedges back home to Nashville.

Paolo, left, is a master mozzarella maker. In his book, Matt Goulding describes him as one of the greatest in the world. Vito, right, loves to experiment with new flavors in the cheeses he makes. This guy proposed to his wife with cheese. He is holding the cow’s milk burrata we purchased. The outer shell is solid mozzarella, while the inside contains stracciatella and cream, giving it an unusual, soft texture.

That’s our driver Giancarlo in the doorway. He is the nicest guy and is the companion of Maura, who manages the villa we rented for the week. They have made our trip to Puglia even more special.

After we left Altamura, we went on to Matera, the world’s third-oldest continually lived-in city, and it looks like Old Jerusalem. Many movies have been filmed here including The Passion of the Christ.

A work by Dali

We found a Rose wine that we really like and have ordered it in several places, Califuria. It is crisp and delicious. We’re going to try to bring a few bottles back to the states.

People once lived in these caves, whole families and all of their animals.

Below, one of the roads leading to our villa. The roads here are very narrow and driving has sometimes been a challenge for me. I’ve been cursed by four different Italian drivers when we’ve met on a road too narrow for both vehicles to pass. I am so terrible at driving in reverse, that I won’t back up in fear of tearing up the car…the one time I tried one of the wheels hit stone wall…thank goodness it wasn’t the bumper. People have yelled words I don’t understand, and it’s probably best that I don’t know what they are saying.

 On Wednesday, we had a lazy morning and then drove down to the ocean. We were all ready to see the beautiful Adriatic Sea up close. It did not disappoint. The color can’t be seen in my photos, but it was a gorgeous aquamarine. The weather was fantastic.

We found a great lunch spot right on the water and had some more of our favorite Rose (we learned it came in fat bottles!) We all ordered fresh seafood in many varieties. Betsy and I shared a whole roasted fish and some grilled veggies.

Bonnie and Lisa ordered a seafood pasta that had clams, mussels, squid and lots of other stuff that Betsy can’t eat.

Grilled eggplant and zucchini

I have been wanting to try sea urchin, so Wednesday was my chance. We all (except Betsy) had a taste. I loved it. I’ll be having it again.

Betsy with the manager (and maybe an owner) of the restaurant. She was fantastic with us.

Back home to sit around the pool and relax.

Today, we’re going south to Lecce!

Ciao!