A beautiful sunrise
The sun rose on another clear and gorgeous day in Tuscany, such a gift for our last day in our villa and our little corner of this region. And our last day was highlighted by such a great visit to a farm and learning about cheesemaking.
We set out early for our drive to Podere Il Casale near Pienza. The drive itself is such a treat, so beautiful around every turn. Our cheesemaking demonstration was set for 10 a.m.
We’ve seen fields like this every time we are out. We asked the farmer/cheesemaker about these clumps of clay during our visit to Podere Il Casale. He said farmers turn the soil like this in August and then wait for the rain in September to soak into the clay. Then, they break it up to plant the winter crops like wheat. However, there has been little to no rain this year in this region (whereas southern Italy is flooding), so the clay has hardened. I’ve been thinking about how American farmers use the no-till method, which doesn’t disturb the soil so much and therefore protects the moisture and nutrients. However, it may not work for such heavy clay soil.
We arrived early for the tour and demonstration, so we tried to find a little patch of sun to stay warm. It’s chilly here in the mornings.
Farmer/cheesemaker Ulisse with his dog Tommy, a maremmano sheep dog.
The farmer/cheesemaker Ulisse joined us and gathered us and the other four people who had booked the tour to give us an introduction to the farm. As he explained how the sheep weren’t milked this time of year, I realized we were not, as planned, making sheep’s milk cheese. Instead, he said, we would be making goat cheese. Betsy and I don’t like goat cheese, or so we thought.
The sheep, which are not producing milk this time of year.
The farmhouse, which was purchased along with the 160 acres of farmland by Ulisse and his wife 30 years ago when they moved from Switzerland to Tuscany. In addition to making cheese, they press their own olive oil from their grove, make their own wine from their vineyard, raise chickens and pigs, wheat and other grains and have a vegetable garden, fruit trees and a top-shelf farm-to-table restaurant.
They also grow saffron crocus, which must be picked in the mornings on sunny days when the flower is open. Then the red-orange three-part stamens are plucked from the flower and dried. Saffron is the most expensive spice in the world and pound for pound is worth more than gold.
Tommy follows Ulisse everywhere.
It was time to learn about cheesemaking and some of it was quite surprising and maybe a little disturbing. Rennet was a new word and concept for us. It is an enzyme used to set the cheese. Just a few drops are added to cause the milk to coagulate and separate into solids (curds) and liquid (whey). The curds become cheese while the whey is used for products as varied as cosmetics to protein powder.
Two main types of rennet – animal and vegetable — are used. Traditional cheesemaking uses the animal rennet and almost all aged cheeses use animal rennet.
For our demonstration, the goats were milked that morning and then the milk was cooled. He poured some in glasses for us and asked us to taste it. We didn’t really want to, all expecting something that tasted horrible and gamey since it was raw goat milk. However, it was surprisingly sweet and not too bad. None of us plan to have a glass in the future, but it was a pleasant surprise.
He also poured us some whey liquid after the cheese was set and removed into containers. Most everyone took a tiny sip, except Emily and a member of the other group. When offered the glass of yellowish liquid, they both said, no way to the whey. That got a chuckle out of everyone.
It took about 25 minutes for the goat milk to become fresh goat cheese.
After the demonstration, we toured the creamery and the farm, which has 150 sheep and 30 goats and produces many varieties of pecorino, goat cheese and ricotta.
Two kinds of goat cheese including one wrapped in charcoal.
The first lamb of the season. He said in a month, there will be 50 more births.
Billy Goat Bob and his buddy Ben are busy boys this time of year.
After the tour and demonstration, we were served a lovely lunch with products from the farm. The outdoor area was beautiful.
A grilled goat cheese stuffed with a celery puree and highlighted by a yellow carrot puree
The view from our table.
A raviolo that was thin and crispy and stuffed with ricotta
The cheese board, all products of the farm and the cheesemaker. The honey on the right is also produced on the farm, and the left bowl contained a delectable tomato and watermelon relish.
Ulisse described the cheeses. We tasted everything, but could not eat it all.
Dessert was a chocolate rye cake with salted caramel
Our tour mates included a mother and daughter and son and her daughter’s husband. They were from Slovenia and all had traveled and lived around the world. They were interesting, nice and funny.
We got back to the villa around 4 p.m. When we first booked the villa, we also booked a cook to prepare our final dinner. After all that cheese, we were kind of dreading the dinner, but it turned out to be delicious. The cook, Maria, is in nursing school, reinventing her life after the pandemic. She was so kind and prepared us a beautiful dinner.
Cocktails before dinner and enjoying our last sunset.
Sliced cured pork with arugula and parmesan
Crostini and bruschetta
The local pasta, pici, with a tomato/meat sauce. Simple and delicious.
Milanese beef cutlets and stuffed zucchini flowers.
The dessert was a tiramisu. Of course, we ate very little and packed the rest up in ziplock bags to take with us to Rome, though it’s doubtful it will make the trip.
Now it’s time to head to Rome. We’ve arranged a private driver to take us to our apartment near the Trevi Fountain. We just realized last night that the G20 event is in Rome so heads of state from around the world are in the city and, unfortunately, are planning an event today at the Trevi Fountain. Our driver has warned us that it may be challenging to get us to our apartment. Fingers crossed.
Today is Betsy’s birthday and we have reservations for a fun dinner tonight in the Eternal City.
Ciao!
Kim & Betsy 
What an amazing adventure you are on. I’m looking forward to reading about your stay in Rome. ❤️