Sitting in a piazza/plaza is among our favorite activities. We’ve done it in Rome, Paris, Lisbon, Prague. Sitting with a coffee or wine and watching the world go by is one of the great pleasures of travel for us. We did that today.
We took a taxi to the Duomo; the driver literally drove us to the door. I’m not sure that was legal because we never saw another car even enter that piazza. But, just like everyone else, our driver was kind and helpful. We exited the car to the sounds of The Godfather theme being played very well on an accordion. The sound filled the air and it was wonderful.
The Cathedral of Siricusa website said that it is closed to visitors on Sundays until after mass, which is held at 10:30. We arrived at 11:30 and went inside. A lot of people were walking around and a lot were seated. We sat down to orient ourselves and read some history, but then the bells chimed and the call to mass began. We exited because so many signs asked that tourists not be present for mass. Lots of tourists ignored that and walked around taking photos while mass got underway.
In its first life, today’s cathedral was a 5th-century BC Temple of Athena, built by the ancient Greeks after a military victory. Athena, the goddess of wisdom and war, was the patron deity of the city. Over time, the structure was converted from a pagan temple into a Christian church, and later reshaped with a Baroque façade after the devastating 1693 earthquake. Inside, the massive stone columns — originally part of the Temple of Athena — still stand, dividing the nave. It’s so impressive the building has been in use for more than 2,500 years. It’s not ornate, but it definitely feels historic.
The photos below were taken before we realized mass was beginning or after mass ended.
The left side of the building gives another glimpse into history. The original Doric columns of the Greek temple are fully visible, built directly into the cathedral walls.
On the same piazza, is the Church of Saint Lucy (Chiesa di Santa Lucia alla Badia), dedicated to the city’s patron saint. We walked inside and took a seat to relax a bit. Saint Lucy was born in Siracusa in the late 3rd century and was martyred during the Roman persecutions of Christians.
We left there and found a table with a perfect view of the entire piazza. We had a cappuccino and then a prosecco. They brought some treats, nice breads stuffed with spinach or topped with some prosciutto and cheese. We sat there for at least an hour and just enjoyed watching the activity. So many people were having a nice time, so many dogs were enjoying the day and children were running and laughing. It was perfect.
We kept seeing people carrying tulips. Betsy asked our server and he said it was traditional to buy and gift tulips for St. Valentine’s Day, still being celebrated on Sunday. When I walked around to the side of the cathedral to take some photos, there was an area marked off for a tulip sale. So many colors and so many people buying the flowers.
Rain drove us from our seats and back toward our apartment. We walked down Via Roma and then Via Cavour, a particularly charming pedestrian path. The rain came intermittently and fell really hard for a minute or so, but we stood beneath an eave until that passed and then made our way home.
We rested in the apartment for a while and enjoyed the sea view. Dinner was a bit of a challenge. We didn’t want to get in a taxi again and also didn’t want to walk far after all that walking earlier today. We stopped at a few places with only outdoor dining, but it was cold and windy and those heaters didn’t seem to be putting out any heat. We finally went to a very small place and, again, were the only customers. People here just don’t eat before 8 p.m. and we showed up around 6:30.
This is our last night in Ortigia and we’re so glad we visited here. The apartment has a stunning view, which helps us forget that it has little else going for it. A driver will pick us up at 10 to take us to Catania for a night in a hotel. I have to say, I’m looking forward to that. I love vacation rentals, but sometimes a hotel just feels like being pampered.
Kim & Betsy 
Sitting in the piazza with a cappuccino and people-watching sounds like the perfect way to soak in the city’s history and charm 😍
Your photos are wonderful. Children, doggies, tulips, architecture, and all the color…Italy!